I digress...
On arrival at Christchurch airport I was collected by mini bus provided by the Kiwi Base Camp. As we drove into town, I was struck by the familiarity of my surroundings. It was green, leafy and kind of old around the edges, hell, it was Edgbaston (Birmingham, UK)!
I considered this thus, as I no longer live in the UK, it was no hardship, although I refused to take photos... However, if I had just paid several hundred pounds and travelled for nearly 24 hours from, say, Birmingham, I would have been somewhat vexed especially when one could have taken the number 35 bus, considerably cheaper and taking only 25 minutes.
After 20 minutes or so, we arrived at the Kiwi Base Camp. Reception was a haphazard, lackadaisical affair. I was shown up to my room. It was basic with a bed, dressing table, desk and tv, the shower rooms were down the hall. The furniture appeared to have been collected from the street on recycle days but it was clean and worked.
Suffering from road weariness, I decided not to investigate the town and headed to the Burger King I had passed on the way in. I approached the counter and asked the blank faced, Emo youth and asked, "Do you have anything meat free?" "What?" it replied. "Do you have anything meat free such as a fish or veggie burger?" I continued. "What? Oh, we have the garden burger" she replied in that slow, suicidal drawl of all fast food establishment employees. "What's that?" I asked. "Onion rings and cheese, in a bun".
Feeling queasy, I ordered a green salad and some fries and scurried back to my hostel. I use the word hostel quite literally as I began to discover, this place was everything that I had dreaded a hostel to be.
That night was spent watching uninspiring TV and rolling around trying to avoid the springs that protruded from the mattress. The next morning I went down to breakfast in the hygienically challenged shared kitchen. I did manage to enjoy the freshly baked bread although the insipid instant coffee left much to be desired. Then went and waited my turn for a shower, refreshed, I headed out in search of real coffee.
I grabbed a map and took Montreal Street into town stopping briefly for a decaf skinny latte and to admire the clock tower. On arrival, I found a large park, not unlike Canon Hill park where they were setting up for a Chinese community festival.
There were brightly coloured paper lanterns of all shapes and sizes cast all around.
I walked up and down, around and about stopping for lunch and a cheerie chat with the not unattractive guy in the Red Cross shop. Sated, I headed back to the hostel and in search of a bottle shop (alcohol shop), I had spotted a Thai restaurant that was 'bring your own'.
I dined on a delicious Penang prawn curry at Bangkok Cuisine. Back at the hostel I sat out on the deck pondering what to do with 2 thirds of a bottle of wine I didn't want to drink alone. Soon enough, I was joined by Renata, a German traveller on her way to Byron Bay to study for the IELTS (English language) exam. She was glad of a sympathetic ear and I was happy to share my wine and expertise.
The next morning I decided not to brave the kitchen and sourced breakfast in town. I returned to the hostel in time for my return bus to the airport.
At Christchurch I boarded an Air New Zealand flight to Nelson. Domestic air travel in New Zealand is a delight where you are treated like a human being and not assumed to be a criminal, you can take what you like onboard as long as you promise to behave yourself.
The flight took 40 minutes on a Bombadier propeller aircraft where we were served a glass of water and a boiled sweet. I was astounded as even this seemed to be too much work for the solo flight attendant. In my day I would have served drinks, three courses with wine, coffee and liquers in Club class as well as drinks, sandwiches, tea and coffee 'down the back'!
On arrival in Nelson she informed us that we would collect our luggage outside the terminal, alongside the aircraft, I thought. Right? Wrong. Upon disembarking I followed the other passengers into the building, past the one shop and out to the street where sure enough the bags were brought around on a trolley.
I was picked up by Scott an Edinburgher working at the Golden Lodge. We drove through the picture postcard seaside town of Nelson and up the hill to Fellworth House a 130 year old Victorian house and home of the Golden Lodge.
What can I say? The house has been beautifully restored and offered amazing views of the town and bay below. It was bliss, I luxuriated on one of the many balconies until it was time to meet up with my friend, Rachael.
Rachael and I had flown together back in the day. She arrived glowing, smiling, blooming in the latter days of her pregnancy. With over 11 years catching up to do, we had a lot to talk about! Which we did over a delightful seafood pasta and a humungus pizza at When in Rome.
The next day was spent wandering around town, meeting Rachael for lunch and having dinner with a Russian, a French man and a couple from Ireland back at the lodge.
The next morning, feeling a little wine weary I went out in search of coffee. I returned caffeined and pierced. I had exited the plague like, green logoed American coffee chain and walked past a clothing store/hairdresser/piercing studio.
What possessed me to spin on my heel and march in? After trying on two tops, I asked the girl behind the counter, "How much is it to pierce here?" and pointed at my right tragus. "30$ including the stud or bar" she replied. I eyed up the selection of bits of metal I could have shoved into my face and was seduced by a twinkly diamonte stud, "Can I have that?" "Yup" she said with a typically New Zealand twang.
I filled out a form and was directed up the stairs to a room not unlike a dentist's. I sat in the chair and chit chatted with the girl as she whammed some needle like instrument into my ear. I don't remember there being any anesthetic but it was already done before it started to hurt. She screwed my stud in, wiped up the blood (I've had this piercing before so she was going through scar tissue, it bleeds more) and sent me on my way.
I skipped back to the lodge eager to show off my new augmentation. There was no one around, so I got changed and headed up to the alleged center of New Zealand. Scott had told me it was a pleasant 20 minute walk.
As I started up the hill, there were two old ladies ahead of me "Can't be that hard" I thought. I huffed and puffed sometimes overtaking the old dears on the zig zag path. Towards the summit I came to a cross roads, which way to go? The ladies were nowhere to be seen. I chose to go right and nearly gave myself a coronary climbing the precipice. I rounded the corner and finally I was there!
As I admired the view who should I see but my track buddies strolling along looking relaxed and smug for they had taken the path to the left, the gently inclining short cut.
I rested a while to get my breath back and lament not having brought any water with me then gingerly donned my earphones (what with the new piercing and all) and set off back down the hill singing along to Pitingo.
Back at the lodge it was time to pack up my stuff (again!!!) then Scott dropped me back at the airport for my flight back to Oh Christ! church.
I had previously booked another night at the Kiwi Base Camp and after the luxury of the Golden Lodge, I wasn't looking forward to it. I was given a room right opposite reception, next to the front door, it had a bunk bed a reclaimed school desk and a broken radiator. I was not impressed.
I returned to Bangkok Cuisine for a tasty pad thai; then, thankfully exhausted, headed to bed. I listened to countless drunken twentysomething travellers punch in the wrong key code, slam the door, scream and shout, enquire about availability whilst the staff had a BBQ round the back.
After about 3 hours sleep my elderly and now miserable carcass was collected by the Super Shuttle driver and transported to the airport for my stupid o'clock flight to Queenstown.
Oh the joys of budget travel!
Good luck to Rachael and husband on the imminent arrival of their bambi, was lovely to see you.
Next stop, the mighty Queenstown!!!!!!
- Posted from my iPhone
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