After the almost deserted Ko Lipe we thought we were ready for a little more civilisation. From Pak Bara we took a bus to Trang and from there a bus/car ferry to Ko Lanta.
I admit I had been spoilt by the beauty of Ko Lipe and had only just arrived but my initial reaction was "It's a rather like Tenerife". "Give it a chance" TC replied.
The first calamity was our accommodation we had been very clear in requesting a twin room and were given a double. No problem, we were to spend one night there and were moved to a twin cottage the next day.
Our first night started well, we dined on red snapper and raw tuna salad at the fabulous Red Snapper. We then wandered off down the road to find some party people.
I believe the bar was called Opium, we chatted to the bar man cum diving instructor and sank a few g&ts. Eventually, the place began to fill up, we were absorbed into an international group of backpackers, encouraged to play pool and drank more g&ts.
I was chatting away to Klas (rhymes with glass), a cabinet maker from Sweden when I noticed I had misplaced TC. After a brief search, I found her curled up amongst the cushions in the garden sleeping like a baby, clearly the long day of travelling combined with the g&ts was just too much for her.
I took her home and continue to wonder and be amazed that I didn't kill us both! With the aid of my mini Maglite I negotiated the dirt path and the perilous network of raised walkways between the cottages.
Supporting both her and my druken mass I may actually be a superhero.
The next day started unwell as we both suffered the effects of our excesses. After breakfast, several liters of water/coke and watching Slumdog Millionare in Thai we began to feel better and ventured out to the beach.
I repeat, I admit I am besotted with Lipe and have eyes for no where else, what I saw made me want to weep. No powder white sand, instead a dirty beige grit arches along the coast for several kilometeres.
Starving we headed for the nearest bar. We sat in the midst of a huge impersonal beach hut. I looked at the menu and felt even more depressed, almost suicidal as I ordered a tuna baguette and chips.
After "lunch" we trekked along the beach. Benidorm, was all I could think. Unlike Benidorm Long Beach does not have endless, faceless highrise hotels. However, the atmosphere is the same, gone are the homely cottages replaced by identikit bungalows, some with hammock for a touch of authenticity. The cosy reggae bar is now a giant mockery serving bargain buckets at happy hour.
TC and I parked ourselves on a patch of sand, not difficult as there seems to be barely anyone here. We paddled, we joked and took photos of the sunset.
We remarked that the tide was coming in, then feeling the hunger pangs again we headed back. Calamity number 2, where we had entered the beach we had walked straight across a dry channel, neither of us remembered this. The tide had now come in filling it with what appeared to me to be white water rapids, we were trapped!
Now, anyone who knows me, will be well aware of my contempt for the sport of swimming. I can/will do it but only under duress or if needed to save my life. This was one such situation.
TC eyeing my discomfort/terror stepped up snapping me out of my trance like state and unflinching when I asked to hold her hand. The water was deeper than both of us had anticipated but slow moving. We arrived the other side safe and soaked through, laughing hysterically.
We had planned to dine on the beach but after our near death experience decided to stay on the main road. After perusing a few places we stopped at Mr Wee's Pizzeria.
Oh my Lord! First we chose a table but changed at the last minute when I noticed the filthy tablecloth. The new table was no better. Then came the music, Celine Dion.
Attempting to remain true to our inner Thai selves, we ordered, chicken noodle salad, yellow seafood curry and a side of vegetables in oyster sauce, sounds good, no? No!!!
TC picked unconvincingly at her salad, I gagged on my curry which had clearly been prepared with Patak's curry powder rather than a traditional gaang. To make matters worse I hushed TC and listened closely, not only were they playing Sea lion Dion but her greatest Christmas hits!!!! Blood began to pour from our ears as she wailed her way through Deck The Halls and a particularly disturbing version of the Ave Maria.
That's when I snapped, I drew breath and began a screeching monologue berating having ever left Ko Lipe to come here. Ko Lanta - go later, Ko Lanta - you don't wanta! TC tried to placate me pointing out that had we not come here, we wouldn't know that we didn't like it.
A little calmer, I conceeded to allow Ko Lanta to attempt to redeem itself.
The following day TC went out on a snorkelling trip and I was left to my own devices. I had a leisurely breakfast, hunted down some free wifi then headed to the beach.
I strolled along the seafront, found a shady spot under a tree, flung down my microfibre towel and browsed through my copy of CNN Traveller. Listening to Jose James, I got to thinking.
My family and friends have been wishing me well since my arrival in Thailand and are genuinely amused by my crazy adventures. Yet I have heard nothing from the one person you would think would be most interested and concerned as to my escapades and well being, the other person who was supposed to be here. Why not? Who knows, perhaps I shouldn't care, but I do.
That evening, TC and I headed to Thai Cuisine for dinner. A random French dude chose to buy us several glasses of wine and TC charmed the owner by asking for Thai lessons thus our dinner bill was greatly discounted.
We popped to a nearby bar for an after dinner tipple and were befriended by Mem, the crazy tomboy waitress from the Red Snapper and my new dancing partner.
Our last night in Ko Lanta wasn't so bad. However I had heard such good things about Ko Lanta, I wanted to like it but I was expecting more beauty and less tat.
Next stop, Ko Phi Phi.
- Posted from my iPhone
No comments:
Post a Comment