Brasileño Madrileño (BM) and I rumbled into town in going on for 40 degree heat. The bus was met by various reps from different hotels. I chose the guy who said his place was new and we followed him up the road. He took us up to one of the rooms with sea view. Simultaneously, we turned up our noses and consulted our guidebooks. Being a believer in the idea that life/god/the universe gives you signs along the way, I suggested we head to the Kerti Villas, afterall, I've a mate called Kierti!
Sorry mate, but we checked out a room and it was a bit sad. Back on the road, we went through the whole proceedure again at the Padangbai Beach Inn. We were shown into a shiny new room, there was still plastic on the headboard. It was huge, there was aircon and the balcony looked straight out over the beach you can't use because boats moor there. No matter, we were feeling a bit of luxury and agreed to the elevated price.
Starving, we consulted the oracle guidebooks again and set out for Depot Segara. We got lost, asked several people for directions and then stopped at a warung that was full of locals. We filled our bellies with grilled tuna and yes, another fish curry!
As we left and turned the corner BM noticed that Depot Segara was actually the "international" place nextdoor. It was clear we'd made an excellent mistake.
Next we asked directions to the beach you can use we were told to head for the post office and then take the new road. The "new" road was in fact a dirt track created as access for a building site that has since been halted.
On the beach you could easily forget the busy, rundown port area. It reminded me of Ko Lipe. There were only 3 makeshift warungs after everyone was closed down when the bulldozers moved in. When I say makeshift, I mean tarpaulin suspended between two bamboo sticks over a plank or two serving as tables. Need the loo? pick a bush!
BM and I were loving it! Even the two women selling sarongs and massages were friendly rather than imposing.
Over a coconut and a few beers we got talking to a guy from California who lives 6 months of the year in Ubud. He enquired as to our plans, I told him I was heading to Lombok. "You don't wanna do that!" he said, "it's all changed now". He suggested I take a 4 day island cruise that included Komodo island, home of the Komodo dragons. Reading my mind, BM said, "You have to do it!" It was a plan.
BM purchased a beautiful batik sarong and thus we parked ourselves on a patch of white sand. We drank beer, smoked (incidentally, the same brand of) cigarettes, told stories about our families and made up Spanglish words.
We returned home via the dirt track, slipping on loose rocks and nearly killing ourselves several times. Showered and dressed we headed to the Ozone bar, it was empty so we kept going. Eventually, we stopped at a cosy looking place and sat cross legged on some cushions on an elevated platform. Both being fond of avocados we went for overkill, avocado juice followed by guacamole and pizza. What possessed us to order pizza, we'll never know but when I felt queasy later "It was excess avocado!" said BM.
Across from the restaurant were ajoining reggae bars, Babylon Bar and Kinky Reggae Bar. Feeling Kinky, we entered and ordered a g&t and a Cuba libre. Served in wine glasses and with the competing sound systems the thinly disguised arak didn't taste too bad.
The next morning after discovering I had been bitten on my ass twice by mosquitoes, we checked out of the hotel and headed for the Perama office. We were bombarded with offers of transport, got lost, bumped into the American guy, then just as we were actually considering the logistics of us two plus our bags on the back of a moped, we came to our senses, realising it was only around the corner.
At Perama, we/I organised BM's mission to the airport via Kuta to pick up something he'd left behind. Then I asked about my cruise, I was so excited! "One moment" said the Perama man through one of the gaps in his teeth. He made a quick phone call then shook his head, "It's not running, start again in March".
Just like that, my dreams were dashed! "What will you do?" asked BM. "I don't know" I replied, "but I can't stay here". The transport hawkers had become just too much for me and the hike to the beach was fun in a second date kind of way but not on my own, besides, who'd keep look out when I had to duck behind a bush?
"Why don't you go to Candidasa?" said BM. It was as good a plan as any and only 30 minutes away, I booked a ticket.
We wandered off to the Zen Inn to grab some brunch. A fish burger and Jamaican spicy beef, "Is it authentic?" asked BM, "They put mango in it." was all I said. Much more subdued then we had been we joked awkwardly, avoiding eye contact. BM broke the ice, "I wish I'd met you sooner, I wish I didn't have to go." "Me too" I replied.
Our buses left the Perama office at the same time on the same road out of town we waved each time one overtook the other until mine turned off towards Candidasa.
I'm not quite sure what Candidasa is supposed to be, the drive in takes you through rice paddies and a residential area, then it becomes restaurants and bars with the sea on one side. Sea, not beach.
Candidasa seems to have been a failed experiment in coastal town planning. Along the road there are various access routes down to the rocks but I didn't see any beach as such. From the Perama office, I headed down the road to the Temple Cafe/Seaside Cottages. At reception I chose a cold water fan cottage. From the path leading to my room I could see the waves, good enough for me!
I booked for two nights, long enough to get my laundry done, eat some good seafood, get my postcard posted and drink a few beers with a crazy Italian who may or may not catch up with me in Lombok!
Thanks to BM for a fab few days, maybe we'll cross paths again in Spain, Cuba, Montenegro..... who knows?!
Next stop, Lombok, Indonesia.
- Posted from my iPhone
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